Holly de Ruyter’s “Old Fashioned: The Story Of The Wisconsin Supper Club” fits a snug little niche with its look at the unusual persistence of “supper clubs” in the Badger State, even as chain restaurants dot the Midwestern landscape. Modest to a fault, “Old Fashioned” champions regional taste and strong communities, as well as insular values, in a fairly pleasing way, even if fried perch and relish trays likely won’t be sweeping the land anytime soon. 51m. (Ray Pride)
“Old Fashioned: The Story Of The Wisconsin Supper Club” opens Friday, April 29 at Siskel.
Ray Pride is Newcity’s film critic and a contributing editor to Filmmaker magazine.
His history of Chicago “Ghost Signs” in words and images will be published in Spring 2022.